BTGBullseye

Deciding which game I should play.

Sounds like you were dreaming of being a cat...

Aesthetically, they work pretty good... As for the HD models I was mentioning, I consider the CP armor in the Cinematic Mod to be quite good. (say what you want about the mod itself, but the CP/combine models were awesome)

Is a comedy that's directed by Mel Brooks. Young Frankenstein.

AHHHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!

Not bad... Now you need to do more. Not even close. I used to know someone that said almost exactly that.

If nobody's going to say anything, then will someone shut him up?

It's remarkably easy to make a modded weapon system in Source; you just make additional weapons. You can actually have hundreds of different ones, all with the same name, and inventory slot in-game with no issue. What you'd have to do is have the character's weapons removed, and then added back when they purchase from the store. (the first weapon inserted in the slot takes precedence over any other weapons encountered for the slot) Just have a slot for each type of ammo or whatever, and you're good to go. They're good resources. Might want to look into getting HD versions of some of the models though, if possible. Might I suggest no more than 5% resist for buckshot and 10% for animal attacks? 20% is unrealistic in the extreme for buck resistance from light clothing, as 00 buck (what you supposedly normally see in games) can go through mild steel plate (up to 3/16") at 15 yds with killing force on the other side IRL. Side note, for shotguns, make sure whatever type of ammo you're choosing has the same number of pellets, penetration, and spread as the real stuff. (#000 buck usually has 6 pellets, #00 has 8, and #0 gets 9, and so on) I personally would like to see games use #4 buck for the ammo, as it uses .24" pellets, and there are 21 of them in each shot. (plus the performance is much closer to what you see portrayed in most games that show 6-8 pellet impacts per shot) Also, please include flechette/dart rounds for the shotguns if possible. (50% improved penetration, 30% reduced damage) Going back to RL performance of shotguns, I would suggest for anything that isn't designed to be armor be reduced in resistance to them. For heavy clothing 20% is a better range IMO. (same for pistols and SMGs) The fragments from grenades are usually small needle-like chunks of steel, flying at between 2x-5x the speed of sound... If you're within the blast radius, nothing but plate (which should protect completely, and receive little or no damage at all to the plate itself) is going to protect you by more than 10%. (I would suggest making that a standard across all the armors, and remove any fragment resistance from mere clothing) Unless that hat is made from half-thickness kevlar plate, it shouldn't resist anywhere near that much damage... I'd say 2% is more accurate until you're using a helmet. (also, armor points from the hat, but not anything else?) See previous about buckshot and fragmentary weapon recommendations. (this includes the pipe-bombs) I would also suggest that unless it has plate, kevlar fabric armor (the norm for light armor) won't do anything to protect against an axe or hatchet IRL. (unless it's being swung very slowly) See previous about buckshot and fragmentary weapon recommendations. (this includes the pipe-bombs) Additional, unless there's plates, any form of soft armor is incapable of fully preventing all damage caused by pistols/SMGs. True, it could be a 95-99% reduction, but unless it's going against a .22 short, you're going to have some bruising or welts. For larger calibers, (.45 ACP, .50 AE, .45 long colt, etc.) broken bones and internal bleeding are not only possible, but likely. See previous about buckshot, fragmentary weapon, and pistol/SMG recommendations. (this includes the pipe-bombs) Your numbers for caliber resistances are way off, as a 7.62 will always hit harder than a 5.56... Even plate will only survive a few (3-4) direct hits from a standard 7.62 NATO, but can do a dozen or more from 5.56 NATO. It's more about the mass than it is the diameter when you're talking about armor penetration, and a 7.62 usually has 3x-4x the mass of a 5.56, and travels around the same velocity. ______________________________________________________________ What do you think?

Did someone say something?

Logitech headsets are very decent for consumer-grade products. I use their mice exclusively, with good reason. (got a G700, and it took a few dozen hits through a backpack from 20-50 lb steel wedges from welding class, and one direct hit from a red hot plate, all with no damage) I have, have had successful suicides, and even attempted it myself once... (couldn't find the ammo, or I would never have been a part of this forum) There's really nothing that can be done by anyone except those that are directly affected, except to let them know that you're there if they need someone. I think Seattleite knows we're always here for him... If not, he's blind. It's about the pending doom of the unnamed species that is about to go extinct... Of course it will affect nothing in everyday lives, but it's good to feel its passing in such a profound way.

Can you imagine if they all just came back one day and started acting like they never left? Yes, it would be epic, and we would fit right in. Don't tell them!!! lol OT: Eating, doing laundry, and watching Daredevil.

Has someone who can speak with an English accent. Robin Hood Men in Tights.

Dude WAY is so awesome... It's difficult to remember that he's in his 50's. He's in my parent's age group, and still entertaining the kids.

What headset brand/model? OT: Sore and slightly frustrated. Been on my feet all day working, and turns out I didn't actually have to. (my fault, but I forgot about 2 days of work a few weeks ago)

At least you're not having to deal with the return of all the MIA 2011 forumers. lol OT: Making pizza, catching up on forums, and possibly playing some games.

My parents started doing that this year... I think it's either age, or something in their drinks.

Die! Die! Die! Die! Die! Die! Die! Die! Die! Die! Die!

I went for the 419's, and they are holding up marvelously after 3 years... I even attached a mic to them to turn it into a headset. If you want quality, I recommend Sennheiser. I got and used my HD419's while I had long hair, and never once got my hair stuck in them. (they also have nice soft fuzzy earcups, so that's another bonus for comfort) Sennheiser also makes headsets, but they do cost a pretty penny, if you can find them anywhere except online. As long as he reads the thing, it doesn't matter. Honestly, I've met 'super sketchy' looking people who were harmless, and overall very nice Christians, so it's not like this is a rare occurrence. I will admit that some of the comments were obviously people who are prejudiced against any Christian religion, but allowing them to upset you is something you should try to avoid. (turn the other cheek, remember)

Generic Lemon-Lime soda, and a Tombstone 4-meat pizza with an additional 7 cheeses and additional Italian spices.

I just want to mention an interesting fact brought up by my mother about the Measles vaccines... The older ones never require a booster, but the newer ones do. Why would they move from permanent immunity to temporary? (all of my research only comes up with the modern MMR-II vaccine information)

Sounds like an interesting game... Make sure the player can customize the weapons, (different sights, barrel-mounted accessories, under-barrel launchers, etc.) and his/her armor. (several helmet types that variably decrease the damage taken by headshots, vest soft and hard armor, full body armors, etc.)

It's remarkably easy to do thermal paste/grease properly, and if it's using a thermal pad (like 95% of laptop manufacturers use) even a piss-poor job will provide better cooling. (I know this from decades of experience) I only recommend it for laptops because they tend to have thermal pads, if they defaulted to paste/grease instead, then I still would. Old/dried grease/paste can significantly hinder thermal conductivity. (unless it's one of the higher-end ones, the kind that manufacturers will never use by default) The exact process for replacing the thermal paste/grease on a laptop: ***Note*** If some thermal paste goes over the edge of the chip, that's OK, so long as you are using electrically non-conductive paste. (like the one I recommended) Otherwise, make sure to clean it up VERY thoroughly! 1. Look up a disassembly video on youtube for your laptop brand & model, and follow it's directions EXACTLY. Do not pass the point where you can extract the heatsink in the disassembly. - 1a. If you can't find a video, take the screws out, and place them on a piece of paper in the same location you took them out. Do this for as many layers as needed. Typically you will have to remove the keyboard to get to one or more screws that are necessary to remove to fully disassemble the laptop. - 1b. If you can't find any online help, and want an experienced person to walk you through it, hit me up on Steam. 2. Remove the heatsink. 3. Using paper towel, and 90% or higher rubbing alcohol, remove all original thermal pastes/greases/pads, and clean all surfaces they previously contacted. (both on the mirror-like surface of the chip, and the heatsink) 4. Place a drop of thermal paste, approximately the size of a grain of rice on both the CPU and the GPU. (I doubt you have a split heatsink, as they are rare, and are pretty exclusive to the extremely high-end) 5. Reattach the heatsink in the the same way it came off, then remove it again. 6. If the thermal paste appears to have been squished and cover a much larger area, proceed to step 6b. - 6a. If the thermal paste does not appear squished, or only slightly squished, that means that the laptop was designed with a gap there, and you will need to put about 5-7 times the amount of paste as you initially did. Clean the chip like in step 3, then apply the larger amount of paste. Try to make it a single glob in the very middle of the chip surface, and reattach the heatsink. - 6b. Perform steps 3 & 4 again, reattach the heatsink, then proceed to step 7. 7. Reassemble the laptop in the exact reverse of how you took it apart. 8. Turn on the computer and check the GPU idle temperatures to compare to before. It's all right if the temps look the same or maybe even a little higher, as it can take up to 48 hours of constant use to fully set the paste. 9. If the temp is the same or lower, run something taxing to see if the GPU temp gets as high as it used to. If it doesn't, good. If it does, leave the laptop on for 48 hours, use it normally, and check the temps then. 10. In the rare case that temps increase, you may need to apply the paste again. If you don't feel safe spending $15 and doing it yourself, you are welcome to take it to a computer repair shop, but be prepared to spend $50 or more in addition to the cost of whatever thermal paste/grease they choose to apply.

Has pirates in it. Steal This Film.

I would recommend putting it at between 12 and 16GB... (just don't let it auto-adjust)